Center Seam Moccasins
Tracing feet and making a pattern is the basis of constructing a pair of center-seam eastern woodland indian moccasins. Brain Tan Leather is used for the moccasin. Trims such as fringe, beads or cutouts are inserted at the heel of the moccasin as well as decorative stitches like whip stitching.The extended ankle piece is folded over to complete the moccasin, and a leather strip is tied around the ankle to hold the moccasin in place.
Making the Moccasin Pattern
Draw a center line on pattern paper with a drafting pencil. This will be the moccasin center-seam fold line in a later step. Make sure the pattern paper is large enough for you to stand on.
Position your feet on either side of the line drawn on the pattern paper. Make sure your heels are 1 inch apart and are 1 inch away from the edge of the paper. The inner portion of the heels are 1/2 inch apart.
Mark the distance between the heels as pattern part "E.:. Mark the distance from the edge of the paper to the heels as pattern part "D."
Set the balls of your feet 1/4 inch apart. This is the area below the big toes.
Locate the base of the big toe. Slightly angle the pencil upwards from the base of the toe to the center line. Mark the center point as "A."
Measure 1/2 inch from the toes to the edge of the pattern paper with a ruler. Draw around the toes using a 1/2-inch distance from the large toe to the outer ball of the foot. Make a mark at the little toe. Draw a horizontal line from the little toe marking on each side of your feet
Position the ruler horizontally at the little toe marking and measure 1/2 inch. Mark the pattern point as "B."
Draw a vertical line from the little toe marking down to the heel. Position the ruler on a 90-degree angle on point "B." Draw a line until it meets with the end of the line from step 7. The cuff will be folded along the ankle, using the angled line as the folding guide.
Measure 2 inches from point "B" and draw a perpendicular line. Draw a line to the bottom of the pattern paper maintaining the 2-inch measurement. The line appears slightly angled. Mark the end point of the line as "C."
Connect point "C" to "D" by drawing a curved line with a French curve ruler. Make sure the center point of the curved line is at least 1/4 inch away from the edge of the paper.
Cut out the paper pattern along the outer lines. Pin the pattern with straight pins on scrap felt or fabric and cut out two pieces with scissors. Though cutting fabric scraps is optional; it gives you the opportunity to ensure the moccasin fits prior to cutting out project fabric such as leather or suede.
Fold along the center line made in step 1. The pattern appears boot- like.
Stitch along the outer pattern lines. Points "B," "C," "D" and "E" are matched up as you stitch. If you are working with heavy weight leather or suede, change the sewing needle to a leather needle to avoid breakage.
Turn the boot inside out. The raw seams will be inside of the moccasin boot. Try on the moccasin for comfort and fit.
Cut an angled "V" slit at the back of the heel. Use points "D" and "E" as your guide. Do not cut the slit until you try on the moccasins.
Stitch trim such as fringe or beads at the back heel. This step is optional.
Cut a thin strip along the edge of the leather or suede. Make sure the strip is long enough to tie around your ankle. Cut two vertical slits at the back of the moccasin with leather shears or a leather knife.
Insert the thin strip through the slits and tie the moccasin. Fold over the boot-like rim to complete the center seam moccasin
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